World AIDS Day 2009

I will never forget where I was on World AIDS Day 2009. As a volunteer for Diakonia AIDS Ministry, I had a feeling that whatever the December 1^st celebration brought would be an experience of a lifetime. It is no secret that HIV and AIDS is still a large and seemingly insurmountable issue in South Africa. Multiple sources report that South Africa has the highest infected percentage in the world. The exceedingly populated and often economically poor townships are the hardest hit by the virus. Among the countless evils implemented by the apartheid government was the unceremonious dumping of millions of dark-skinned Africans in what are known as the townships. These people were denied proper education and access to other universal human rights like healthcare, the right to marry whom they wished, and the right to travel where they wanted when they wanted. The dismal apartheid conditions were not only a gross violation of human rights, but they also provided the Human Immunodeficiency Virus* (HIV) a perfect place to spread and thrive.

 There is a saying here in South Africa that everyone in the country is either infected or affected pertaining to HIV and AIDS. This means that it is nearly impossible to ignore the pandemic because of the sheer number of people carrying the virus. However, there are many people who still try to ignore it. There are those who wish to hide behind a false sense that the virus does not and will not affect them. This is unfortunate, and I am glad that the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Southern Africa does not hide from HIV and AIDS, but instead the Church has chosen to speak about the issue outwardly and honestly. Ministries like my very own Diakonia AIDS Ministry, which was dreamt up by ELCSA Presiding Bishop N.P. Phaswana, are shining examples of the Church taking action. I have heard it said that the Church alone will not defeat the pandemic, but the pandemic cannot be defeated without the Church. This does not just mean the church in the highly affected areas of Sub-Saharan Africa, but the entire Body of Christ all over the world.

 I could go on for a long time about this incredibly lofty issue, but I will get back to World AIDS Day 2009. Diakonia AIDS Ministry decided to hold an event at the nearby Nancefield hostel. In South Africa, hostels are not rustic places for backpackers to stay for cheap like one may think. These hostels were set up for accommodating migrant workers coming from the rural areas. Only men were allowed to stay at these locations, which became hotbeds of violence, prostitution, and the spread of HIV. This particular hostel, I was told, used to be a battleground between the African National Congress (ANC) and the Inkatha Freedom Party (IFP), two political organizations that never held much love for one another. When I say battleground, I do not mean it in the same way we talk about “battleground states” in US politics. The two parties literally used to shoot each other at Nancefield hostel. Fortunately and recently, attempts are being made to improve the hostels. They are now more like project housing that consists of family units. This is an improvement over the previous conditions but these locations are still some of the most impoverished and have high rates of HIV infection. This was the site chosen by the AIDS Ministry for the World AIDS Day festivities, which I found to be extremely appropriate.

 First of all, being in Soweto on World AIDS Day was a powerful notion in itself. This is the center of it all. This is the largest township (actually a collection of townships) in the country with the highest HIV and AIDS prevalence on the planet. For someone like me who has always been interested in this issue, it was truly exciting to just be here. World AIDS Day is intended to be a celebration, not a funeral service. The purpose is to gather together and remember those whose lives were claimed by the infection, as well as to talk about it openly. It was an honor for me to be a part of it all.

 Our program consisted of a number of speeches made by various members of our ministry and the community. Although most of what was spoken was in isiZulu or Sesotho, I could tell by the reactions of the audience that the words were powerful. We then, at noon, gathered in a circle and lit red candles in remembrance. It was beautiful to glance around the room at those who had congregated; many of whom I know are HIV positive because of their affiliation with our ministry’s support groups. Going with the statistics, at least a third of the individuals in that room carry the virus. At times, I thought to myself, “What right do I have to even be here?” I have not lost a family member to AIDS-related illness. I could not even imagine what emotions were floating around the room for everyone gathered there. It was beautiful and heart wrenching at the same time. It was a privilege just to bow my head in prayer and be a part of that circle.

 The latter part of the program consisted of various performances, and the atmosphere in the room was one of celebration. A local choir performed a number of beautiful African spiritual songs and some with a little gospel flair. I do not think the smile left my face the entire time they were up front. There was also traditional Zulu dance performed by two different groups. The choreography and fervor with which they danced was simply incredible. They would kick their legs so high and fast that the mere sight of it made me pull a muscle (okay maybe not quite). It was one of those moments where I just had to sit back and feel fortunate to be a witness. You can ask me to demonstrate Zulu dancing when I get home, but I will need to do an extensive stretching routine first, or maybe I can just show the video I took instead.

 At one moment on World AIDS 2009, I was hit with this realization. I was experiencing South Africa in a very real way. On one hand I was witnessing the romantic side of Africa: the singing that was unbelievably beautiful and the dancing that was simply mind blowing. All we needed was a lion to waltz in (Not many lions in Soweto, though). On the other hand, I was in the middle of a poor township, in a building covered with graffiti and broken windows, with people who were all infected with or affected by HIV. This is South Africa, I thought. This is real. It was a strange but powerful juxtaposition. HIV and AIDS is a very real issue in South Africa, too real. My final thought is this: being here has showed me the stark reality of how the infection ravages these beautiful people. However, at the same time I have seen resilience and hope. Having a number of friends now who are HIV positive makes the virus less mysterious and therefore less frightening. Thanks to modern medicine and improved access to it, HIV is no longer a death sentence and those living with it can live relatively normal lives. This pandemic is still severe but it can be beaten, and it will be, with a little help from all of us.

 

 *The Human Immunodeficiency Virus is what is known as a retrovirus, which is related to how the virus replicates itself. Retroviruses have a high rate of mutation, which is why there are so many resistant strains. This explains why it is so difficult to find a cure. Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS) is when HIV suppresses the immune system a defined amount or when the person contracts an opportunistic infection that someone with a healthy immune system would not. Being HIV positive does not always involve an AIDS diagnosis, but HIV causes AIDS. Also, people do not die from AIDS, rather from AIDS-related illnesses. Finally, since AIDS is an acronym, it should never be written “Aids.” Just a little extra information. Thanks for reading.

 

I wrote a new blog entry! Is it?

As a typical unilingual American (not something I’m proud of), I am glad that English is widely spoken in South Africa. Although immersion in an environment where another language is being used certainly is conducive to learning that language, I admit that I would have a hard time if required to learn Sesotho or isiZulu in order to perform my missionary duties (although I’m doing my best to at least learn the proper greetings). However, it is important to remember that the English spoken in South Africa is not what we would call American English. I have heard it called British Imperial English, as South Africa was a part of the British Empire much more recently that the United States was. There are also cultural colloquialisms that take some getting used to, some with subtle differences to the American equivalents, and others that leave newcomers scratching their heads. So without further ado, here are a few examples of such phrases that are common in South Africa:

 Is it?

This is a phrase that is regularly used. It is the American equivalent to “really?” Sometimes it makes perfect sense. For example, “My house is down the street.” The response: “Is it?” Other times it is more of a head scratcher: “I saw a zebra today.” Response: “Is it?” The next time someone tells you something new say, “Is it?” no matter if it makes sense to you or not.

 How’s it?

This is an easy one. It is an easy way to say “How are you?” or “How’s it going?” Although I have yet to figure out how to properly respond. Do they really want the story of how you are doing at that moment or is it just a simple greeting? I usually say, “Fine, how are you?” It has worked so far. It could be like when someone says, “What’s up?” in the States. It is more a cool way to say hi than an actual question.

 Just now

The literary meaning is no different, but culturally the idea of “just now” is very different than in the United States. It is not a secret that the rest of the world does not share the same sense of time as we Americans do. This variation can be both a relief and a great source of frustration. To the wonderful people of South Africa, “Just now” could be better understood as, “whenever I feel like it.” This could mean anywhere between a few minutes and a few days, or in some cases never. I have spent an entire Saturday waiting for a friend who was coming to see me “just now.” It is best just to keep a good book close at hand.

 Now now

Similar to “just now,” the meaning of “now now” varies depending on the region. I think maybe “now now” is a shorter amount of time than “just now.” However, since “just now” can mean pretty much any length of time, “now now” is up for much interpretation. I was told earlier today that my neighbors would come see me “now now.” I got hungry two hours later and went to make dinner (or supper as they would say). So “now now” pretty much is the same as “just now,” only a little different.

 This side/that side

I love this one. This often used instead of “here” or “there.” The great thing is that “that side” can be anywhere from the other side of the room to the United States of America, halfway around the world. A parent can tell their child to “go play that side” meaning across the room so they do not knock something over or they can ask me, “how are things that side?” meaning at home in the US. I often have to clarify what exactly I am being asked.

 These are just a few of the phrases I hear frequently in my day-to-day life. I find these sayings to be quite endearing most of the time though at times a little confusing. There are also many different words for things that come from British influence and that of other regions. The back of the car is the boot and not the trunk. One doesn’t pick someone or something up, rather the item or person is fetched. You don’t call someone you phone them. The time is half past twelve and not twelve thirty, and when you ask for the bathroom people look at you funny and wonder why you would take a bath at such a time. Here, they prefer the not-so-discreet term toilet, as if there was any doubt. I’m learning slowly but surely.

 So while I’m trying to learn bits and pieces of the Sesotho language while mastering the subtleties of South African English while this side, I hope everyone that side is enjoying reading my blog. You can all look forward to another entry just now, or is it now now?