Friday, March 19, 2010

The Many Sides of South Africa

Greetings! From Soweto and happy March to my friends and family back home. It is most difficult to believe that in four months I will be back in the United States. I hope the coming of spring (in the Northern Hemisphere) and the Easter season fills everyone with optimism and joy despite the seemingly endless stream of bad news materializing from around the world on a daily basis. With less than three months to go before the FIFA World Cup, South Africa is scrambling in preparation to host the World. At this point all we can do is keep our fingers crossed that everything is ready (and yes, I got my tickets!). The weather is starting to cool off a little bit in the Johannesburg area and the summer thunderstorms are much less frequent. My apologies for not updating my blog sooner.

 Since the beginning of the New Year, I have been fortunate enough to do some traveling around the country. From the rural areas of the Limpopo province to the luxury and beauty of Cape Town, I have had the opportunity to see many sides of South Africa. Although disparities between rich and poor are common all over the world, South Africa has the largest divide between social groups on the planet. Yes, this region has been blessed with breathtaking beauty that calls many all over the world to pay a visit. However, I believe it is all to common for tourists to visit places like the Cape Town waterfront and Kruger National Park while turning a blind eye to the corrugated metal shacks and malnourished children, the site of which is all to regular. I will gladly testify that Cape Town and Kruger are incredible and I strongly recommend seeing those places in one’s lifetime, but I strongly believe it is an injustice to the people of South Africa if those are the only places a visitor uses to build their perception of the country.

 My family visiting in February gave me the first real opportunity to see the “touristy” side of South Africa. Fortunately, we were able to also spend a couple of days in Soweto so I was able to show them the environment in which I am living as well as the way that many South Africans live. My family was even able to participate in a church service that lasted nearly seven hours! It is an absolute blessing that I was able to introduce them to many of the people who have become my family away from family as I serve here. After our short stay in Soweto, we were off to the Mpumalanga province in the area close to Kruger National Park where we had an amazing time meeting great people, eating wonderful food, and seeing all the magnificent animals that call Southern Africa their home. This was the beautiful and wild side of South Africa, a side that should been seen during a visit. We then took a scenic drive though Blythe River Canyon and then flew to Cape Town. Our entire trip was wonderful and exactly what I needed to sustain me for the rest of my term of service.

 Cape Town is regarded by many as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and it is indeed. However, there is a side to Cape Town that is vastly different from the main part of the city, which is sandwiched between Table Mountain and Table Bay, the numerous beach towns dotting the shoreline of the Cape, and the scenic wine country. One does not have to travel far to reach the Cape Flats. The apartheid regime was extremely skilled in implementing their separation of people based on skin color. The Flats are a glaring example of this separation. This huge expanse of land, primarily sand dunes lacking trees and fresh water, is home to millions of black Africans who mainly live in those corrugated metal shacks that are seen so often. It does not require a second glance to realize the harm caused by the apartheid system. No human should me made to live like that, and no government should ever allow it, let alone sanction it. During our volunteer’s retreat, we had the privilege of visiting the largest single township in South Africa, Khayelitsha, which houses around two million people (Soweto has four million but is considered a collection of townships). We were invited by a program called Africa Jam, which is an after school club that uses song, dance, poetry, and drama to provide a positive message for other young people in the township based on the Gospel of Jesus and social awareness. The participants were eager to demonstrate their incredible skills with us in attendance. It was another one of those missionary moments that is difficult to describe because it was so deeply moving. It was a beautiful side of Cape Town that cannot be found in a travel book.

 Spending the vast majority of my time in Soweto since my arrival in South Africa has affected me greatly. I suppose I have grown used to seeing the way the majority of South Africans live, a way that would be considered sub-standard by most Westerners. Because of this, going to a “Westernized” place like Cape Town took some major adjustments. I have certainly seen more than my fair share of fancy places in my life, but this time I could not help but feel a little guilty. Eating at fancy restaurants, drinking nice wine, and being driven around by tour guides is something that most of my Soweto friends will never have the opportunity to experience even though this is their home country. I struggled with listening to our tour guides give their personal versions of South African history, which often seemed to me to be slanted in favor of the Afrikaners, white South Africans of Dutch decent. I had to continually remind myself that South Africa belongs to all those who call it home, and that not all Afrikaners were supporters of apartheid. I had to remind myself that I can get all riled up about racial oppression in South Africa, which is fine to do, but I also have to remember what my American government has done to the indigenous peoples of our homeland, putting them on reservations that are really no better than South African townships. This provided me with a great opportunity for personal reflection. It is amazing how I have become quite comfortable in Soweto, but that a nice hotel in Cape Town made me feel a little out of place. I still love the look of shock, horror, and concern on people’s faces when I tell them I am staying in Soweto. It gives me the opportunity to tell people how wonderful this place contrary to ordinary beliefs. In a way, after witnessing the wide spectrum of South African lifestyles, from townships to wineries in old Dutch manor houses, I have come out of it less sure about my place in the world, less sure about how I am supposed to be feeling in these different situations. Everything has been shaken up now. I still have some processing to do.

 When someone witnesses people living in poverty while others are living in luxury, the natural response is to wish to make a difference. I think this is especially true when such an encounter occurs in another country. Driving past the seemingly endless rows of shacks along the N2 freeway on the way from the airport to the main part of Cape Town can be an eye-opening experience and we immediately wish we could do something to help. However, when the destination is reached, whether it is a nice hotel or guesthouse, it is easy to forget about the scene along the freeway. I think the single most important thing to do is remember. We all must acknowledge the issue at hand. Millions of people in South Africa are living in terrible poverty while many are living richly. Before any help can be given, and before time and money can be donated, we need to think about the problem. When we return home, after a two-week vacation or a year long mission, it is important to tell the stories of those whose stories may not otherwise be heard. When someone asks if Cape Town is as beautiful as it is in pictures, I believe the reply should reflect both on the positives, such as the beauty of the city and all the fun things to do, as well as the negatives, like all those living in poverty clearly due to the aftermath of racial oppression. There is always more than one side to a story. Unfortunately, we often only hear the side that is the easiest to stomach. I have challenged myself to remember above all else. To acknowledge. To tell the stories. Perhaps then we can really begin to make a difference in the world.

 

I would like to thank my family for coming all the way to South Africa to see me. I had an amazing time and I love you. Also, thanks to Brian and Kristen Konkol and my fellow volunteers for a great retreat. I feel recharged after spending that time together. To those at home, thanks for your support and for reading my blog. I will be home in four short months.

Blessings.